Diamond Buying Guide

Diamond cut refers to the quality and craftsmanship of how a diamond has been shaped, faceted, and polished from its raw form to its final gemstone appearance. It is one of the most important factors that affect a diamond's appearance, sparkle, and overall beauty. The quality of the cut directly influences how light interacts with the diamond, resulting in its brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

Diamonds are typically cut into several shapes, such as round brilliant, princess, cushion, emerald, and more. The cut is assessed based on various parameters, including:

Proportions- The angles and relative sizes of different facets on the diamond. Proper proportions ensure that light is reflected and refracted optimally within the stone.

Symmetry- The precise alignment and arrangement of facets. Symmetry contributes to the diamond's overall visual appeal.

Polish- The smoothness and quality of the diamond's surface. A high-quality polish enhances the diamond's ability to reflect light.

Brilliance- The amount of white light that enters the diamond and is reflected back to the viewer's eye.

Fire- The dispersion of white light into its spectral colors, creating flashes of color.

Scintillation- The sparkling effect that occurs as the diamond moves, caused by the reflection and refraction of light.

Diamonds that are cut with excellent proportions, symmetry, and polish will exhibit maximum brilliance, fire, and scintillation. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grades diamond cuts on a scale that includes Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor.

Here's why diamond cut is important:

Brilliance and Sparkle- A well-cut diamond interacts with light in a way that maximizes its internal reflection and refraction. Light enters the diamond, bounces off its facets, and returns to the viewer's eye with intense brilliance and sparkle. A poorly cut diamond may let light escape through its sides or bottom, resulting in reduced brightness and fire.

Beauty and Visual Appeal- The quality of the cut greatly influences a diamond's overall beauty. A well-cut diamond displays a balanced play of light, with sharp contrasts between light and dark areas. This enhances the diamond's visual attractiveness and makes it more captivating to the eye.

Perceived Size- A well-cut diamond can appear larger than its actual carat weight due to its ability to reflect light effectively. This is because light dispersion can create a visual effect that makes the diamond seem larger than a poorly cut diamond of the same carat weight.

Color and Clarity Masking- A well-cut diamond can help mask slight color and clarity imperfections. When light is effectively reflected and refracted, it can make certain flaws in the diamond less noticeable to the naked eye.

Craftsmanship- Achieving an ideal diamond cut requires skill and precision in shaping the facets and proportions. The craftsmanship involved in cutting a diamond impacts its final quality, and a well-cut diamond reflects the expertise of the diamond cutter.

Value- Diamonds with excellent cuts are highly valued in the market because of their enhanced beauty and brilliance. A well-cut diamond can command a higher price compared to a diamond of the same carat weight with a lower-quality cut.

Personal Preference- Different people have different preferences when it comes to diamond appearance. Some may prioritize brilliance and sparkle, while others may prefer larger facets and a more subdued sparkle. The cut allows for customization based on personal taste.

It's important to note that a well-cut diamond can be more visually appealing than a larger diamond with poor cut quality. Therefore, the cut is considered one of the "Four Cs" along with carat weight, color, and clarity when evaluating the quality and value of a diamond.

Diamond color is one of the four primary factors used to assess the quality and value of a diamond. The four Cs of diamond grading are carat weight, color, clarity, and cut. Diamond color specifically refers to the presence or absence of color in a diamond, and it plays a significant role in determining a diamond's overall appearance and value.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), one of the most reputable diamond grading organizations, uses a standardized color grading scale that ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). The scale is designed to measure the degree of colorlessness in a diamond, with D being the most colorless and therefore the most valuable.

As you move down the color scale (from D to Z), diamonds can exhibit subtle tints of yellow or brown. These color differences might not be readily noticeable to the untrained eye, especially in smaller diamonds or when set in jewelry. However, in larger diamonds, the presence of color can be more apparent and impact the overall visual appeal.

D-F: Colorless

"D-F" refers to diamonds that are colorless or nearly colorless, with "D" being the most colorless and "F" being slightly less colorless but still considered very high quality.

G-J: Near Colorless

Here's a breakdown of what each grade in the G-J range generally represents:

G- Diamonds in the G-grade are nearly colorless, but a trained grader might be able to detect a subtle hint of color when compared to higher-grade diamonds. However, these differences are often not very noticeable to the naked eye, especially when the diamond is set in jewelry.

H- Diamonds in the H-grade are also considered near colorless. Like G-grade diamonds, they might have a hint of color that is detectable to a skilled grader, but again, this is often not apparent when the diamond is set in jewelry.

I- I-grade diamonds might show a slightly more noticeable hint of color compared to G and H grades. However, they can still appear quite white to the average observer, especially when mounted in jewelry.

J- Diamonds in the J-grade begin to show a bit more color than the previous grades. This color is typically more evident when the diamond is viewed face-up. However, many people still find J-grade diamonds to be quite attractive, especially if they are looking for a larger diamond within their budget.

K-M: Faint Yellow

A "Faint Yellow" diamond typically falls within the range of K-M on the GIA color scale. This means that there might be a very subtle hint of yellow or brown color in the diamond, but it's still quite difficult to discern without close inspection. Keep in mind that the appearance of color can be influenced by factors such as lighting conditions, the diamond's cut, and its overall size.

N-R: Very Light Yellow

Diamonds that fall within the N-R range are considered to have a "very light yellow" or "very light brown" color. These colors are typically quite faint and may not be immediately apparent to the untrained eye, especially in smaller diamonds.

S-Z: Light Yellow

At this end of the scale, diamonds generally exhibit a noticeable yellow or brown tint. The degree of coloration becomes more pronounced as you move from S to Z. These diamonds are typically considered lower on the color scale and may not be as valuable as diamonds with higher color grades. However, it's important to note that diamond appearance can be influenced by other factors such as cut, clarity, and carat weight, so a well-cut diamond with good clarity can still be visually appealing despite a lower color grade.

Color grading is typically done by comparing a diamond to a set of master stones that represent each color grade. Trained gemologists examine the diamond under controlled lighting conditions to make an accurate assessment of its color. The more colorless a diamond is, the rarer and more valuable it tends to be.

It's important to note that while color is a significant factor in diamond grading, it's not the only one. The combination of all four Cs determines a diamond's overall quality and value. Depending on personal preferences and budget, different people might prioritize different aspects of the diamond's characteristics when making a purchase decision.

Diamond clarity specifically refers to the presence of internal characteristics, known as inclusions, and external characteristics, known as blemishes, within a diamond. Diamond clarity is graded on a scale that ranges from "Flawless" (no internal or external imperfections visible under 10x magnification) to "Included" (significant imperfections visible to the naked eye).

The clarity scale includes the following grades:

Flawless (FL)- No internal or external flaws visible under 10x magnification.Internally Flawless (IF)- No internal flaws, but some minor external blemishes.

Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2)- Contains minute inclusions that are difficult to detect under 10x magnification.

Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2)- Contains minor inclusions that are somewhat visible under 10x magnification.

Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2)- Contains noticeable inclusions under 10x magnification, but often not visible to the naked eye.

Included (I1, I2, and I3)- Contains significant inclusions that are visible to the naked eye and can affect the diamond's overall appearance and durability.

The clarity of a diamond can have an impact on its overall appearance and value. However, it's important to note that diamonds with slightly lower clarity grades (e.g., VS or SI) can still be quite beautiful and valuable, especially if the inclusions are not easily visible to the naked eye. When choosing a diamond, it's recommended to balance clarity with the other Three Cs (carat weight, color, and cut) to find a diamond that meets your preferences and budget.

Inclusions are internal characteristics such as tiny crystals, feathers, or clouds. Blemishes are external characteristics like scratches, nicks, or extra facets. These can be natural features formed during the diamond's growth process or introduced during cutting and polishing.

Clarity can significantly impact a diamond's appearance and value. Diamonds with higher clarity grades (Flawless to VVS) are rare and typically command higher prices. However, inclusions in lower clarity diamonds (SI and I) can sometimes be visible to the naked eye and may affect the overall beauty of the stone.

When choosing a diamond, it's important to consider how clarity interacts with the other Three Cs (carat weight, color, and cut). Depending on the size, color, and cut quality, you might be able to choose a diamond with a slightly lower clarity grade that still appears eye-clean and beautiful.

Reputable gemological laboratories, such as the GIA, issue diamond certificates that include information about the diamond's clarity grade and other characteristics. These certificates provide an objective assessment of a diamond's quality.

A diamond shape typically refers to the geometric outline or form that resembles the shape of a diamond gemstone. It is a four-sided figure with two pairs of parallel sides and opposite angles that are equal in measure. The diamond shape is characterized by its narrower top and bottom, and wider sides. It can also be referred to as a rhombus, which is a specific type of parallelogram where all four sides are of equal length.

In a formal geometric sense, a diamond shape is described by its properties:

Equal Length Sides- The four sides of a diamond shape have equal length, making it a rhombus.

Opposite Angles- The opposite angles of a diamond shape are equal in measure. This means that if you draw a diagonal from one vertex to another, the angles formed at the intersection are equal.

Diagonals Bisect Angles- The diagonals of a diamond shape bisect the interior angles at their intersection point. This means that the angles formed between the diagonals and the sides are cut in half.

Perpendicular Diagonals- The diagonals of a diamond shape are perpendicular to each other, meaning they intersect at a 90-degree angle.

Symmetry- A diamond shape exhibits two lines of symmetry. Each diagonal serves as an axis of symmetry, dividing the shape into two congruent (identical in size and shape) triangles.

Unequal Opposite Sides- The top and bottom sides of the diamond shape are shorter than the two longer side lengths.

Diamond shapes are commonly used in various contexts such as jewelry design, architecture, and graphic design due to their aesthetically pleasing and balanced appearance. Keep in mind that while a diamond gemstone is usually depicted in a certain way, the term "diamond shape" can also refer more generally to the geometric properties described above.

Round-shaped diamonds, also known as round brilliant-cut diamonds, are one of the most popular and well-known diamond shapes. They are characterized by their exceptional brilliance and fire, making them highly sought after for engagement rings, fine jewelry, and other pieces. The round brilliant cut is designed to maximize the diamond's brilliance and sparkle. It has a symmetrical shape with 58 or 57 facets, including the table (top), crown, girdle, pavilion, and culet. The precise arrangement of these facets optimizes the reflection and refraction of light, resulting in the diamond's renowned sparkle. The round shape is engineered to achieve the highest level of brilliance compared to other diamond shapes. The proportions and symmetry of the cut are critical in ensuring that light entering the diamond is refracted internally and then reflected back to the viewer's eye, creating a dazzling display of white light.

Oval-shaped diamonds are a popular and elegant choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry. They belong to the category of "fancy shape" diamonds, which includes various non-traditional diamond shapes other than the classic round brilliant cut. Oval diamonds are known for their elongated shape with gently rounded edges, creating a flattering and graceful appearance on the finger. Oval diamonds are elongated in comparison to round diamonds, creating an illusion of longer fingers when worn as a ring. Oval diamonds typically have a similar facet arrangement to round brilliant diamonds, with a large table (top flat surface) and a crown (upper portion) that includes facets.

Cushion cut diamonds, also known as "pillow cut" diamonds and are characterized by their square or rectangular shape with rounded corners, resembling a cushion or pillow. This cut is a fusion of the modern brilliant cuts and the old mine cut, resulting in a timeless and elegant appearance. Cushion cut diamonds typically have larger facets and fewer total facets compared to modern brilliant cuts like the round brilliant. This gives them a unique and vintage-inspired appearance with a lot of fire (rainbow-colored flashes of light) and brilliance (white light reflection).

The princess cut is a square or rectangular cut with pointed corners, often referred to as a modified square brilliant cut. The princess cut combines the brilliance of a round brilliant cut diamond with a distinctive square or rectangular shape. It has a relatively modern history compared to some other diamond cuts, having been created in the 1960s. The princess cut is known for its clean lines, sharp corners, and ability to showcase the diamond's natural sparkle and brilliance.

Pear-shaped diamonds, also known as teardrop diamonds, are a unique and elegant diamond cut that combines the features of both round brilliant and marquise cuts. They are characterized by their distinctive shape that resembles a teardrop or a pear, with one rounded end and one pointed end. The rounded end is typically used as the top of the diamond when set in jewelry, while the pointed end forms the base.

Emerald Cut Diamonds are instantly recognizable by their "step-cut" facets that create a geometric "hall of mirrors" effect. These rectangular step-cut facets are the only ones that define the cut, so you can choose the individual proportions and qualities you love.

The marquise cut diamond is a type of diamond shape that is elongated with pointed ends, resembling the shape of a football or a boat. It is also sometimes referred to as the "navette" cut, which means "little boat" in French. The marquise cut is known for its elegant appearance, often creating the illusion of a larger diamond due to its elongated shape.

Asscher cut diamonds are a specific type of diamond cut that is often referred to as a "square emerald cut." They are characterized by a square shape with cropped corners and a step-cut faceting arrangement. The Asscher cut was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in the Netherlands. Asscher cut diamonds have a square shape with cropped corners, giving them a somewhat octagonal appearance. The facets on an Asscher cut diamond are arranged in a step-like pattern. This arrangement creates a hall-of-mirrors effect, where light reflects within the diamond in a series of parallel lines.

Radiant cut diamonds are a striking diamond shape known for their brilliant faceting. The radiant cut is a combination of the classic round brilliant cut and the elegant emerald cut, resulting in a square or rectangular shape with trimmed corners. This cut combines the sparkle of the brilliant cut with the clean lines of the emerald cut, making it a versatile choice for various jewelry designs.

Heart-shaped diamonds are a romantic choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry. They have a distinctive heart outline, which makes them a symbol of love and affection. These diamonds are often associated with special occasions and sentimental gestures. Heart shaped diamonds are essentially pear-shaped diamonds with a cleft at the top that forms the heart shape. The proportions of the diamond's length and width, as well as the symmetry of the two lobes, can vary. Achieving good symmetry is important, as it impacts the overall appearance of the heart shape.